Knowing how to change a tire is one of those skills everyone says they will learn someday — until it is 11 PM on a highway and someday has arrived. The process is not difficult, but doing it wrong risks personal injury and vehicle damage. This guide walks through it in the correct order, with the safety steps that most how-tos skip.
What changed in 2026
- Many new EVs and some ICE vehicles no longer include a spare — they come with a tire inflation kit instead. Check your vehicle before you need this information; the process differs significantly.
- Roadside assistance apps (built into most car software platforms in 2026) make calling for help faster than ever — this is always an option, especially if you are on a high-speed highway.
- Run-flat tires are increasingly common; if you have them, you can drive at reduced speed (~50 mph) for up to 50 miles to reach a shop without changing — check your tire sidewall for the "RF" mark.
Before you need it: check your equipment now
| Item |
Where to find it |
Check periodically |
| Spare tire |
Under trunk floor or on undercarriage |
Pressure: check every 6 months |
| Jack |
Trunk or under spare |
Condition: no rust on the mechanism |
| Lug wrench |
With jack kit |
Test it fits your lug nuts |
| Vehicle manual |
Glove box |
Lists jack points for your model |
| Reflective triangles or flares |
Emergency kit |
Optional but strongly recommended |
A spare tire that has been in the trunk for 5 years may be at 15 PSI. It needs 60 PSI. Check it now.
Step 1: Get safe before anything else
- Do not brake abruptly. Keep steering straight, ease off the gas, coast to a stop.
- Get as far off the road as possible — ideally on a straight, flat section, well off the travel lane.
- Turn on hazard lights immediately — before you stop, before you exit the car.
- Apply the parking brake.
- If on a highway, consider whether to change it yourself or call roadside assistance — injuries happen when drivers work on shoulders near fast-moving traffic.
- Place wheel wedges (or rocks/logs in a pinch) behind the tires on the opposite end of the car — for a rear flat, chock the front tires.
Step 2: Prepare to change
- Remove the spare, jack, and lug wrench from the trunk.
- If you have a hub cap or wheel cover, pry it off with the flat end of the lug wrench.
- Loosen the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground — use the lug wrench counterclockwise, one half-turn each. Break their resistance; do not fully remove yet.
Loosening lug nuts with the tire on the ground prevents the wheel from spinning and gives you the ground as leverage.
Step 3: Raise the vehicle
- Locate the jack points. Your owner manual lists them. These are reinforced sections of the vehicle frame, usually a notch or ridge a few inches from the door sill. Placing the jack wrong crushes the vehicle body.
- Position the jack under the correct jack point nearest to the flat tire.
- Raise the vehicle until the flat tire is about 6 inches off the ground — you need room for the inflated spare.
- Do not put any part of your body under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Step 4: Remove and replace the tire
- Fully remove the loosened lug nuts — keep them somewhere they will not roll away (a pocket, a cupped palm).
- Pull the flat tire straight toward you and set it aside.
- Lift the spare and align the holes — line up the lug holes with the studs on the hub.
- Hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern (opposite corners), not in a circle. This ensures even seating.
Step 5: Lower and fully tighten
- Lower the vehicle until the spare tire touches the ground but is not fully weight-bearing.
- Use the lug wrench to fully tighten the lug nuts — again in a star pattern, as firmly as you can.
- Fully lower the vehicle and remove the jack.
- Give each lug nut a final tightening check once the full vehicle weight is on the tire.
Step 6: After the change
- Check spare pressure at the nearest gas station — it likely needs air.
- Drive no faster than 50 mph on a compact spare (donut). Full-size spares can match normal speeds.
- Get to a tire shop within 50 miles (compact spare limit) — donuts are not rated for highway distances.
- Have your lug nuts torqued at the shop (proper torque is 80–100 ft-lbs on most passenger vehicles) — the lug wrench you used does not provide calibrated torque.
How to pick: change it yourself or call for help?
| Situation |
Recommendation |
| Safe pullout, flat road |
Change it yourself using this guide |
| Highway shoulder, fast traffic |
Call roadside assistance — the risk is not worth it |
| No spare / inflation-kit vehicle |
Use the inflation kit for small punctures; call for help otherwise |
| Night, no flashlight, poor visibility |
Call for help |
| Run-flat tire |
Drive at 50 mph to the nearest shop |
Common mistakes
Jacking the car at the wrong point. The rocker panel or body seam is not a jack point. One wrong placement bends sheet metal and can cause the vehicle to fall.
Tightening lug nuts in a circle. This pulls the wheel on unevenly, leading to brake rotor warp and wheel wobble.
Not loosening lug nuts before jacking. With the tire off the ground, the wheel spins — you cannot break them loose.
Driving on the donut at highway speed. Compact spares are typically rated for a maximum of 50 mph. They are temporary transportation to a shop, not a replacement tire.
What to skip
- Over-tightening by standing on the lug wrench — you can strip threads on the stud or warp the brake rotor. Firm hand pressure is enough until you get to a shop for proper torque.
- Leaving the flat in the trunk and forgetting it — a repaired spare is worth having; a permanently damaged one is not.
FAQ
My car does not have a spare. What do I do?
Many vehicles now include a tire inflator and sealant kit. It handles small punctures (nails, screws). For sidewall damage or blowouts, the kit will not help — call roadside assistance.
How long does it take?
With practice, 15–20 minutes. First time, more like 30–40 minutes. It goes faster once you have done it.
Can I drive slowly on a flat instead of changing it?
Only for a very short distance to reach a safe location — even a few hundred feet of driving on a flat rim can destroy the tire, rim, and potentially the wheel assembly.
How often should I check spare tire pressure?
Every 6 months minimum. Spare tires lose ~1 PSI per month through the valve stem. Most donut spares need 60 PSI — well above what most tires run at.
Where to go next
For related vehicle and practical skills, see How to jump-start a car in 2026, How to check tire pressure in 2026, and How to pack light for travel in 2026.