A screw that turns and turns without tightening is not a screw problem — it is a hole problem. The threads have nothing to bite into. The good news is that stripped holes in wood are simple to repair permanently with materials you almost certainly already own. Here is the complete 2026 guide.
What changed in 2026
- Instant wood repair epoxies (two-part, mix-on-application) are now available in small single-use packs at hardware stores, making hole repair fast and clean without mixing large quantities.
- Self-tapping screws with reinforced thread designs are standard in flat-pack and modular furniture — they hold better in composite materials and are more forgiving of slight over-tightening.
- Thread repair inserts (heli-coil style brass inserts for wood) have become a popular permanent upgrade for high-stress screw points like hinges and drawer slides.
Diagnose the type of stripped hole
| Situation |
Cause |
Best fix |
| Screw turns but will not grip |
Wood fibres stripped |
Toothpick method or larger screw |
| Hole is visibly enlarged |
Repeated stripping / wear |
Epoxy filler then re-drill |
| Screw is in particle board/MDF |
Material disintegrated |
Thread insert or longer screw into solid backing |
| Screw head is stripped (driver slips) |
Screw head damaged |
Rubber band trick or screw extractor |
Fix 1 — Toothpick and wood glue (best for most cases)
Works for: door hinges, cabinet hinges, door handles, furniture joints in solid wood or plywood.
- Remove the screw completely.
- Apply a small amount of wood glue (PVA) to 2–4 toothpicks.
- Push the toothpicks into the stripped hole — fill it but do not overflow.
- Break off the toothpicks flush with the surface using a snap or a trim knife.
- Let the glue dry at least 30 minutes (1 hour for best results).
- Drive the original screw back in. The glue and wood fibres give the threads material to grip.
This is stronger than the original hole once properly dry.
Fix 2 — Larger or longer screw
Works for: slightly stripped holes with some grip remaining, when you can access the full depth of the material.
- Try a screw one size wider (e.g. No. 6 instead of No. 4) or 10–15 mm longer than the original.
- Drive it in slowly — too much torque will strip the larger hole immediately.
- Stop as soon as it is snug — do not overtighten.
Best for a quick fix when time matters. Not as strong as the toothpick method for high-stress applications like hinges.
Fix 3 — Epoxy wood filler (for larger damage)
Works for: significantly enlarged or broken-out holes, damaged door frames, old or soft wood.
- Mix a small amount of two-part wood epoxy filler per the instructions.
- Pack the filler into the hole, slightly overfilling.
- Smooth flush and let cure fully (typically 30–60 minutes for fast-set types).
- Once hard, drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than your screw.
- Drive the screw in — the cured epoxy holds screws extremely well.
Fix 4 — Thread insert (permanent upgrade)
Works for: high-stress hinges, frequently removed screws, particle board.
- Choose a brass thread insert sized to your screw.
- Drill a pilot hole to the insert's outer diameter.
- Screw the insert into the pilot hole using a screwdriver.
- Drive the machine screw into the insert — it will not strip again.
How to pick
- Standard hinge screw in solid wood? Toothpick and glue — fast, cheap, permanent.
- Slight stripping in good wood? Try a slightly longer screw first.
- Big hole, soft/damaged wood? Epoxy filler and re-drill.
- High-traffic or high-force screw (top hinge, drawer slide)? Thread insert for a permanent fix.
- Stripped screw head (not hole)? Place a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw head to add grip, or use a screw extractor bit.
Common mistakes
Driving the same screw back into the same stripped hole. It will not hold and makes the hole worse each attempt.
Using too much wood glue with the toothpicks. Excess glue prevents the screw from threading properly. A small amount coating the toothpicks is enough.
Skipping the pilot hole when re-drilling after epoxy. Epoxy is hard and can split if a screw is driven in without a pilot. Drill first.
Overtightening when testing after repair. Let the glue or filler cure fully before full tightening. Stress too early reopens the repair.
What to skip
- Cardboard or matchsticks instead of wood. They compress under load and do not hold. Use toothpicks — they are the right density of wood.
- Superglue alone in a stripped hole. It can crack under shear force and does not give threads anything to grip.
- Screw anchors designed for walls. Drywall anchors in wood holes displace wood and make the hole larger, not smaller.
FAQ
How long does the toothpick repair last?
When done properly with wood glue and allowed to cure, the repair outlasts the original — the wood glue bond is as strong as or stronger than the surrounding wood.
Can I use this method on MDF or particle board?
Toothpicks work less well in MDF — the material crumbles rather than compressing. Use epoxy filler or a thread insert for MDF.
The screw is in a door hinge — can I do this with the door in place?
Yes. Wedge the door open, remove one hinge screw at a time, repair, let dry with the wedge in place, and re-drive. Do all screws in one hinge at once for efficiency.
What if the whole hinge area is split or damaged?
Epoxy wood filler can rebuild a damaged surface. For structural hinge points, a carpenter's assessment is worth getting for door frames that carry significant weight.
Where to go next