A washing machine that smells means your clothes will smell, even fresh out of the wash. The irony of a dirty machine is that it builds up exactly because it looks clean — water drains out, so residue, mold, and detergent buildup are invisible until the smell hits. Cleaning a washing machine takes about 20 minutes of actual effort once a month. Here is how to do it properly.
What changed in 2026
- Washing machine cleaning tablets (Affresh, Tide Washing Machine Cleaner) are now widely sold and genuinely effective — the "hot water + bleach" DIY approach and commercial tablets produce similar results.
- Front-loader mold remains the most common complaint and is still caused by the same two things: wet door gasket and too much detergent. The solution has not changed.
- High-efficiency (HE) detergent is now the standard — and the single most important cleaning prevention is using the right amount of it (typically 1–2 tablespoons, not the full scoop).
- Self-cleaning cycles are built into most modern washers; these help but do not fully replace manual gasket cleaning.
Monthly cleaning: the drum cycle
For front-loaders:
- Run the machine empty on the hottest cycle available (typically "clean washer," "drum clean," or the highest temperature setting).
- Add either: one commercial washing machine cleaning tablet to the drum, OR 2 cups of white vinegar to the detergent drawer.
- Let the cycle complete fully.
- Once done, wipe the inside of the drum with a clean cloth.
For top-loaders:
- Run the machine empty on the hottest setting, filled to max water level.
- Add 4 cups of white vinegar (or use a cleaning tablet) and pause the cycle when the drum is full.
- Let it soak for 1 hour.
- Resume and complete the cycle.
- Run a second cycle with 1 cup of baking soda to neutralize any remaining vinegar odor.
Front-loader gasket cleaning
The rubber door seal (gasket) folds over itself and traps moisture, detergent residue, and debris — perfect conditions for mold.
| Step |
What to do |
| 1. Pull back the gasket folds |
Inspect thoroughly around the entire ring |
| 2. Remove debris |
Remove any accumulated lint, coins, or residue by hand |
| 3. Apply bleach solution |
Mix 1 tablespoon bleach in 1 quart water; apply with a cloth or old toothbrush |
| 4. Scrub mold spots |
Work the bleach into any black mold spots; let sit 5 minutes |
| 5. Wipe clean |
Use a damp clean cloth to remove all bleach residue |
| 6. Dry thoroughly |
Wipe dry — leaving it wet restarts the mold cycle |
Do this monthly. After each load, wipe the gasket dry and leave the door ajar.
Detergent drawer cleaning
The drawer traps wet detergent and fabric softener residue, which grows mold and blocks dispenser holes.
- Pull the drawer out fully (most lift out completely — check your manual).
- Soak in hot water for 15 minutes.
- Scrub with an old toothbrush, paying attention to the undersides and dispenser nozzles.
- Rinse and dry before replacing.
Clean the drawer cavity with a damp cloth while the drawer is out.
Exterior and filter
Wipe the exterior with a damp cloth and mild cleaner monthly. Every 6 months, clean the pump filter (front-loaders):
- Locate the access panel (usually lower front)
- Place a shallow tray to catch water
- Unscrew the filter slowly — water will flow out
- Remove lint and debris, rinse the filter under running water
- Reinsert and tighten
How to pick the right cleaning approach
- Light odor, clean-looking drum? Monthly hot cycle with a tablet or vinegar is enough.
- Visible mold on the gasket? Bleach solution scrub is necessary — vinegar is not strong enough for established mold.
- Persistent musty smell despite cleaning? Check the pump filter; blocked filters hold stagnant water.
- Hard water area? Descale the drum every 3 months using citric acid or a descaling tablet — mineral buildup traps bacteria.
- Barely used but still smells? Odor comes from standing water — run cleaning cycles and leave the door open.
Common mistakes
Using too much detergent. Excess detergent does not get fully rinsed and builds up in the drum, hoses, and gasket. Use the minimum recommended amount — typically 1–2 tablespoons of concentrated HE detergent.
Closing the door between washes. The damp interior becomes a sealed, humid environment — ideal for mold. Leave the door ajar every time.
Skipping the gasket. Running a drum cycle without manually cleaning the gasket leaves the primary mold source untouched. The cycle cleans the drum; your hands clean the seal.
Using fabric softener frequently. Fabric softener builds up as a residue inside hoses and in the drum. Reduce frequency or switch to dryer balls for softening.
Mixing bleach and vinegar in the same cycle. The combination creates chlorine gas — toxic, dangerous. Use one or the other per cycle, not both.
What to skip
- Cleaning too infrequently and then over-treating — monthly light cleaning beats quarterly deep cleaning that damages rubber seals.
- Scented cleaning tablets to mask odor — they do not clean the source; they just add perfume on top of mold.
- Putting cleaning tablets in the detergent drawer — tablets should go in the drum, not the drawer; drawer tablets dissolve too quickly.
FAQ
How often should I clean my washing machine?
The drum cycle: once a month. Gasket wipe: after every wash load. Full gasket scrub: monthly. Filter clean: every 6 months.
My clothes still smell musty after washing. What is the cause?
Almost always front-loader mold in the gasket or detergent drawer, or too much detergent building up. Clean the gasket thoroughly with bleach solution first — that is the most common culprit.
Can I use bleach in a front-loader?
Yes — put it in the bleach compartment of the drawer, not the drum directly. Follow the machine manual for the correct amount (typically around half a cup for a cleaning cycle).
Does the "clean washer" cycle do everything I need?
It cleans the drum and internal hoses well, but it does not manually clean the gasket. The self-clean cycle and manual gasket cleaning together cover all the bases.
Where to go next